Ensenada

When superstar chef Enrique Olvera made his New York debut with Cosme in 2014, he didn’t just give the city one of its best new fine dining spots; he raised the bar on what Mexican restaurants could charge for labor-intensive moles, raw fish tostadas, and other dishes whose prices might have not ruffled as many feathers at upscale European brasseries or chophouses. Cosme’s two-deep bar crowds showed that New Yorkers were ready for delicious, innovative, and expensive Mexican fare.